RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. The model on the left below has been pre-shaded. And it’s very rarely all of the panel lines. Just a Liitle note on the p47 that won the nationals … that model did NOT won the best of the show on Model Fiesta, The winner was a Ferrari transporter. That’s not to say a lot of these builds aren’t stunning – I think they are. I say keep at it as there’s so many die hard know-it-all modellers out there that need to have their pot stirred from time to time. To each his own. Those would be closed and sealed before priming. The idea is to make a very thin mix of dark color (black, or dark to medium grays or browns) and apply it with a fine brush to the panel lines and surface detail. That’s what I’ve done on the Leopard C2 I’m working on now and it’s going a lot better than the Challenger I built last year without lightening my mix all that much. It’s true that modern non-reflective paint is a dirt-magnet, but at least in the USAF the planes are washed every 1-2 weeks (via a drive-through wash station). I'm sorry, this is my pet hate, light coloured cars with black panel lines, I did it myself early on but I regret it. It’s very nice of you Doogs to show your way and emphasize the need for realism (of course keeping in mind this is just plastic painted too look like the real thing Your remarks on “black-basing” has helped me on my journey towards reacquainting with a childhoods hobby. The Signal Square, or signal area, contained symbols to indicate visually to over-flying aircraft conditions on the aerodrome. ( Log Out / If you are interested, bellow is the link to the work in progress on A6M2 build where the method can be seen (I used dark yellow primer, purple pre-shading followed by IJN Ash Gay base): https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235062811-tamiya-148-zeke-trying-out-a-new-pre-shading-method/, https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235064388-tamiya-148-a6m2-zeke/&tab=comments#comment-3515832. Like shiny NMF on operational aircraft or improper dull or flat coats. But, it was unusual to see the amount of work “preshading” was and why anyone would do it. My go-to black primer being Mr. Surfacer 1500. I high-lighted panel lines on this flat black aircraft by airbrushing them with semi-gloss clear. Some areas do attract grease or foot traffic. As a former USAF Nav/RN, I never ever witnessed enhanced panel lines . Here’s why. This is done in painting. As an artist you need an appreciation for light, shade, worn areas and I tried to achieve the same effect with the model. For those of us with less-than-stellar airbrushing skills, how do you overcome that? We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. Before you start you need to decide whether you are going Just curious. It’s a great build, and the engine detail is just phenomenal. First, let me say that pre-shading actually does some good. The challenge is that any kind of wash on raised lines will just provide shading on both sides of the line and that looks horrendous. Execution of either method is the key, not necessarily one method over another. For any kit worth its salt, shading all those panel lines is an exercise in concentration and swearing. I don’t feel like I’ve had a point yet where I’ve overdone it…but if I did I imagine the process could be done in reverse (small random black “marbling”, then add a blend coat). Truth is, that if the paint’s gonna fade, it’s gonna fade from the panel line towards the center, which is totally opposite to the preshading effect. I sort of agree. Most of the surface detail is goneare due sanding so my P38 looks like it has acne and patches of smooth skin. Additionally, the […] Real aircraft don’t get dirty in such a precise and uniform fashion. I appreciate the common sense approach which I find lacking in this hobby at times. With my experience in Proto:87 modeling, I returned to LSP and was amazed at the leveling of modeling skill I saw. (unless you build for $). Wish I could help you more, Marc…my MO with raised line kits is to not build them…but I would focus more on variation in the paintwork itself, working in layers that way. I wish I could devote myself to just one hobby (photography, R/C airplanes, motorcycling, HO trains, 1/48 planes) long enough to master it as you have. If you’re doing it for stylistic reasons, fine. I donlt know where the trend started, but I think I know the usual suspect. Anybody out there have a so lution? After preshading the whole model apply a coat of future. If you’re getting upset reading this and want to get all defensive and butthurt about it, that’s okay. Good article and well written. It’s never just the panel lines. I completely agree with your post. Not everything has to be black or dark brown. There are different schools of thought about what exactly we are trying to accomplish as modellers. Yes WE All have our ways we build..But One thing I Arm myself with is Photographic Proof of the aircraft I’ve built. I was a Crew Chief in the USAF at one time in my life and I think you’re understanding shading and weathering of aircraft better than most. I pull out the tamiya grey. Manufacturers of not only commercial airplanes but also military planes and helicopters have developed various usage of composite material. Dark body colors (gray, gun metal, brown, etc) require black wash, red – dark … If I do decide to run a dark wash into a line; it will never be black paint, rather a darker value of the surrounding paint to avoid too stark a contrast. And the surfaces of the aircraft itself are filthy, especially around the wingroots. | Doogs' Models, The Problem with Panel Line Shading – 1 Year Later | Doogs' Models, Weathering Tamiya's 1/32 F4U-1 Corsair, Pt 1. Pay attention to the whole of the aircraft, and how all of its elements come together in a cohesive fashion. Panel line pre-shading (and post-shading) totally misses this, and creates something that looks exaggerated and fake – like one of those overdone HDR images. In order for the wash to flow properly into the panel lines, joints and corners of the airplane model kit, the paint mixture should be very thin. Your example of a filthy dirty EF-18 is an extreme. matter…We Are Artists that produce a plane or helicopter that flew in the Past or Present…The Models It’s been described in the The Modeling News article: My memory of the final awards is a bit hazy – I do seem to remember it making off with something above and beyond best aircraft though. I used to pre-shade, until I came to see that all it was doing was swinging the pendulum too far to the other extreme. Personally I think it is most useful on monotone subjects such as most modern military aircraft or even the plethora of sand colored armor out there. Keep up the terrific work! On Models it’s a VERY Delicate matter. Clearly it’s not stark black lines, but if the light is right the panel lines are very visible. There are lots of visible panel lines…but they are not uniform. Sitting in the sun fades paint (less color saturation), which also makes panel lines disappear. BTW, the Skyhawk looks fantastic! It can also be very effective if done well. I need to narrow my question. My thoughts on pre-shading were well known within the club. 2) Be respectful; each modelers has his right to his own ideas and likes and we are not anyone to demerit anyone’s work…scale modeling is an art with different perspectives, not a science of the right and wrong. That created a nice contrast. I’m interested to hear if this could be considered real or rather an impression? While I have yet to even try pre/post shading on a build, I can see who the uniformity of it make a build unrealistic. Gotta find some pics... By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. And if you look at actual aircraft, that’s often exactly what you want. I would be interest to see how you would adapt your black basing technique to bare metal finishes. Weathering Aircraft with Geoff Coughlin There are many ways that you can highlight the panel lines on aircraft and we are steadily getting through as many of them as we can in your SMN Techniques Bank! I have always found this technique to be unrealistic; nothing more than artistic license at its worst. This is all art. On large models there are a lot of panel lines and each one needs to be done individually. I have an artist’s background and I will admit that pre or post shading when done properly is a talent. All of these under the mighty words of the “experts”and “judges”: -“Your model is too clean…”, -“this model is too monochromatic…”. I am curious though… when black basing aircraft, if you over do it and apply too much base coat do you go back and reapply the black base coat? They all have there merits and they can all be done to a varying degree of success. Mike explains everything so it is easy to understand, then he applied the butt-joint panel lines on the model’s stabilizer. It gets modelers – including yours truly – thinking about paint in varying layers of opacity. Nice, clean paint and goth phase panel lines are just not representative of how things actually happen in the real world. The panel shading only really pulled through on the Intermediate Blue fuselage sides. I’ve seen a technique in which you sand down the top color to show the base color underneath (usually the primer and or the bare metal) Would this not lend itself to same issues as pre/post shading? http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/09/takom-whippet-mka-build-pt-iii-painting.html. Yes, it requires “spraying small”, but in a looser and more randomized fashion. all that pre-shading just disappeared. Thanks Alan! I think I have PE poisioning. Included are ten camera definitions, showing external, cockpit and cabin views. I can easily believe that many modelers want that look exactly. A simple solution: Use the unseenunderside of an aircraft wing, car body or ship hull to practice a little. RF-101B Voodoo a couple years ago that I did in an all-black, suedo-Blackbird look. ( Log Out / Another technique I think puts too much emphasis on surface features is spraying a darker shade over tape strip masks to highlight rib detail on fabric control surfaces/wings. The time taken to highlight them is time wasted to depict something that doesn’t exist in nature. There are a lot of other techniques that carry that risk. Would you be willing to make some videos and post them on your site? To shade or not to shade, that is the question. You can achieve this by mixing your artist oil paints with the Varsol. Especially if you’re building a scale airplane. And no doubt, I often make “unrealistic” decisions too; like making invasion stripes “perfect” because, well, I just can’t bring myself not to. I’m not commenting at all on the quality of the build or even the rest of the paintwork, which in many of these examples is quite high indeed. A quick pass with the base color covers a multitude of sins. I agree and disagree. (Yes, I saw the F-18, it’s an anomaly.) but would like to watch you do it. I mean, just look at that B-1. Touchups were visible, and in some areas the paint was so worn down you could see what looked like chromate primer peeking through. In Real Airplanes, you don’t see most of the panel lines. Please, someone, show me a photograph taken at 1:48 or 1:32 scale distance and show me plainly perceptible “panel lines” on any aircraft that’s not dirty. Argument as to Why Panelines are so Dark and Over Weathering. is first looked at for Uniformity, If you OVER Weather it….To you it looks great! Post shading is the way to go, which is essentially what black-basing is; you are just post shading the entire top coat color (if that makes sense). I can say first hand any “new” plane or any aircraft leaving post dock from depot maintenance will have zero panel lines visible. This exercisegives one a feel for the properties of the plastic used in the kit. If you like your aircraft IMO too much attention gets paid to the panel lines, and not enough to the subtle (and sometimes not so subtle) variations going on across the entire surface. I’m talking about pursuing realism or verismilitude, and then shading the hell out of panel lines. But for all the good panel line shading does, it’s bullshit. That same gap on a model would disappear if scaled correctly (which would look stupid and toy like) so panel lines are added. I built a "what if?" In most cases modellers use black or dark grey to do this I see the photos of your technique, but I’m having trouble actually doing it. I have a picture of a Thunderbirds F-16 from the top and I was amazed at how stark every single panel line was. In the case of models, some people would argue that shadows and highlights are needed to bring out the detail, that color modulation will give a 3D volume effect…to a 3D model! Have not painted any model kits for a few years and want to return to the hobby. I’ve had the chance to read this post and the replies from it. I do think it’s a very interesting technique, especially when done well. It’s contrast. Screenshot of Douglas DC-6 panel. Undercoat. Manufacturers use some system of station marking. Invasion stripes were alternating black and white bands painted on the fuselages and wings of Allied aircraft during World War II to reduce the chance that they would be attacked by friendly forces during and after the Normandy Landings.. Too light! My intent is to talk about shading panel lines (mainly pre-shading, but also post-shading), and why – if you’re pursuing a realistic or verisimilitudinous finish, it’s a terrible technique that should be shunned and mocked. ( Log Out / The work is stunning throughout, but to my tastes (and I guess to realism) it seems blown out, like someone’s gotten too frisky with Photoshop adjustments, cranked the contrast here, the saturation there, etc. Anyone who understands aircraft knows that airplanes are clean. Any aircraft leaving the factory in primer, will go straight to paint and have no visible “panel lines” showing. Or at least, that is not my intent. With it, you control shading as you paint, and can introduce it into the overall surface of the aircraft. The paint itself gets battered and dirty. I am another modeller who doesn’t preshade anymore as well. Again, this is just not how actual aircraft weather. Just don’t make claims to verisimilitude. So I gave “black and white shading” a try on a 1/72 Sherman earlier this year and it came out a total mess. First up, my Revell PV-1 Ventura. If a warbird were reduced to a 1/48/ 1/32 scale the panel lines would be very,very faint indeed. My guess is that 1/72 is just too small for that. Dont use black!!!! Here are a few techniques I’ve come to favor (for now): Prime in Black. Black basing, pre-shading, post-shading, it’s all so much unrealistic bullshit. And if you think planes are bad, try building well weathered ship models and see what kind of flack you get from the “experts”. Weathering. The diagonal station of the intake seems No doubt this work is stunning, very creative and visually pleasing but also very laborious. That aircraft is a piece of art.. Thank you! I like your style and mostly agree with what you said above. I can think of another model that, due to the method of construction of the original, pre-shading will be the way to go over the airframe, while black-base will be good around the engines. The model may be an Stellar piece. FS numbers are shown in the attached table. Nor would the egress hatches be open. I don’t have patience or time and I’m certainly not anal enough to worry that the rudder is too large for scale. Since the base color is olive drab/green, the pre-shading is red and dark red (and some purple for the underside). Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. And I do use some post shading myself. You don’t place or anything…WHAT!!! You spent Hundreds of Hours on the model! It’s supposed to be fun as well. Heavy weathering anywhere on a model means that the whole model should be weathered. And with Black Basing, you can still get that I’m guilty of preshading myself but I’ve tried to make the end result more subtle in the past than we see on your examples. I agree with you totally on this topic. One thing I’ve found more and more with the black basing is that it helps to lighten the paint. I’ve been black basing armor for years and it works wonders but haven’t tried it on a flying machine yet. First up, we have a very nice 1/32 Su-25 Frogfoot that was on the tables at ModelFiesta in San Antonio back in February. looking like Flying Armor…Great!!!! I’ve seen tanks and ships so dark painted, that now I call these times “the dark ages of scale modeling”, and modelers that have crossed to the “Dark Side”. Those people have an audience to appease. I’ve tried your black-basing technique on a build recently, and I have to say I really like it. Note how the panel lines and access door behind the cockpit now have enhanced contrast. One thing we often forget is that there are people out there that are making a living doing this. The best tool for scribing surface detail into plastic depends upon a variety offactors, the most important of which are the hardness of the styrene or resin and thecomplexity of the detail to be scribed. Absolutely! I was a contest judge for 7 years within my local IPMS chapter (I no longer am a member because of job constraints). I’m not saying that’s right, I’m just saying whatever floats your boat. Great conversation for us. Since there as been some confusion since I first posted this, let me elaborate on a few things. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Such as the B-1b pictured above. But if he made claims impressionism was “realistic”, there would be a lot of laughing. It’s in primer! Next, my Tamiya Dewoitine D.520. Best regards, D.C. OK, now I can see the difference now and I understand. Also, while I prefer priming with black, which is the same as pre-shading, I never suggest it for beginners since this can be difficult to paint over. For beginners looking to take theirs to the next level, the easiest way to improve the look of your kit is with panel lining. Play it too cautious and you may have difficulties covering the gray primer or managing the contrast. My main point is this – if you took a real plane, and shrank it down to 1/32 scale – it would look terrible. Just look at the “house style” Hasegawa uses to show off their new kits. How would you handle a build in which the panel lines are raised? I’m a recovering model airplane judge..Your model Black-basing solves the contrast problem of pre-shading just the panel lines. It looks like more work (you have to add the white highlights layer before colours), but I think the outcome looks well. I think your work is great!! I couldn’t agree more, Matt. Outside of my issues with the shading, agreed. I as well, agree with what you say Matt. I grew up around aircraft, and I fly them. It takes a while to build up and so I rarely have an “oops” of covering too much. I’d love to, but video production takes a lot of time, which I don’t really have, The black basing is an excellent technique, which I,ve yet to try but will be doing. I don’t know, maybe I don’t have the eye for it, or maybe olive drab is a bad color to experiment with. What do you think? Installation: Copy my panel into your pre-installed DC-6. Pretty hard to say they are dirty planes. But it doesn’t belong in scale model building. I do believe there needs to be some “proof” of artistic license when weathering any aircraft. Various numbering systems are used to facilitate the location of specific wing frames, fuselage bulkheads, or any other structural members on an aircraft. So, how much hate mail have you gotten yet for daring to call out peoples’ builds? It’s…awful. I have been looking for something like black-basing for a long time. Sorry, I digress. I have used your “black basing” technique on armor one time and was not happy with the results. ( Log Out / To locate structures to the right or left of the center line of an aircraft, a similar method is employed. If you make it up as a plane that's in the desert it would have a lot of tan dust on it that would show real well against the black. The guy behind the … Definitely something to keep in mind when you are building. When applying weathering to a model, a good idea is to work gradually and taking frequent breaks instead of going wild with different techniques. During WW2, washing & polishing could add 20 – 40 kn to your airspeed — maybe the difference between living & dying. The Tiger from nice worn panzer grey turned to “sewage grey”. The surface space is pretty small. All of the fine detail and shadow you see on pictures of the real thing would literally disappear. So, i shared this post since then with some modellers friends (followers of the others spanish guys) but their reactions was “everyone builds its models like they want” and confusing about subjectivity/objectivity thing. contest and enter your model….Be Prepared!!! I think this is really interesting and I have a model coming along that will see this used. I LOVE raised details where appropriate – when I do my Trumpeter Dauntless I’m planning to replace all the recessed rivets with actual raised ones – but will be treating them the same as the rest of the surface. I realize beauty is in the Eye of the Beholder…..Painting A MODEL airplane in 1/100th or 1/72 or 1/48 or 1/32 or 1/24 is A Delicate And unrealistic, hyperbolic contrast is better than no contrast, right? Composite material also has contributed to those secondary objectives as saving of assembling manpower. The obsession for showing off “panel lines” is ridiculous and unrealistic. I dont know why it didnt won best of the show Its an exaggerated style that ultimately makes the subject look more animated and less real. For panel lines to look more realistic, you have to choose the right color for your wash. BLACK!!!!????? And the great thing about panel lining is that once you know how to do it, you can easily apply it to anything you build! A few years ago when I was tackling Trumpeter’s P-47, I ran out of my preferred black primer, so instead I primed and then shaded with a whole lot of different dark grays, greens, browns and so on. Yeah there’s some weathering that aligns with panel lines, but a lot of times, it’s a more random variation than that. I’ll agree that panel line shading can be overdone. Not a fan of sanding, either, since to me it gets too stark too quickly. Yes, the panel lines on some aircraft certainly do get filthy. It’s that Easy! Nothing looks more contrived, in my opinion, than heavy-handed pre-shading or excessively-highlighted panel lines. I have witnessed multi hues of panels . My point, maintenance was alway s painting, repainting and sometimes using different panels from other sources as well as walking on and handling different panels with varying degrees of oily/greasy shoes and hands/gloves. So this is the post where I get to shit all over other people’s builds! Its a Tamiya 1/35th Gama Goat Ambulance….not exactly the best vehicle to try the technique on either. Let me say For Armor and Military vehicles……PRE SHADE AND WEATHER YOUR BRAINS OUT! I go to You Tube and watch an individual do a Wonderful job gluing the cockpit parts and doing All the putty work….Only to see them TAKE BLACK PAINT and paint the Entire model including the cockpit A judge sees the Over Both times I went to pains to go uber slowly using thin, translucent coats and all at once – poof! Up until part IV I would even say it’s very realistic (or at least gives that impression), but somewhere around when the author applies oils and dirt, it went (for me) over the edge. I use washes on every aircraft that I build. Very interesting post on panel line shading and pre-shading/black basing. . But my reson for a change of scale is that I’m getting more and more sick with AMS and then I can move up in scale and get even more sick with AMS. Since it gave an interesting result in my opinion, I am using the same method on my current build, Revell 1/48 P61 Black Widow, both on the interior and the exterior. Build, Paint, weather and show off the visible effort you have put into your masterpiece. Most of us probably lie somewhere in between the two. It looks very cartoony, and serves to break the car up into pieces. If you’re playing in that world then you need to appease the masses, or at least the person with the checkbook. And it’s glorious! Contrasty, yet not exaggerated. I can see the argument for how pre/post shading on every panel line can make a build look unrealistic. THIS IS THE WAY I DO IT For the raised panel lines: Preshade the lines' pattern with a dark color according to your top color, i.e. Note: I feel I should restate it here: if you’re going after a stylized representation, then by all means go to town. At the end it all boils down to a couple of things: 1) Build for yourself; do what you want with your model and maybe you wont win many contests (if that is your goal of modeling) but you will win personal satisfaction. But a 1/100″ grove on a model is not going to show a shadow like the real plane does so it requires something like pre-shading or black basing to make it show up in a realistic manner. In every case, objectives of using of composite material have been to reduce weight of planes and to have highly performing flying machines. People fallow this trend because it’s easier to just watch some online tutorials and learn “the only right method” instead of discovering your own way by practicing. I’m not even saying that panel line shading is bad. Change ), You are commenting using your Twitter account. I’ve found a very elaborate tutorial on the “black & white shading” method: http://dqscaleworks.blogspot.com.es/2013/05/the-black-technique-tiger-i-148-by-jose.html. Video to this I understand quite some time since I painted a plane, haven ’ get! Pre-Shading requires an airbrush 20 – 40 kn to your airspeed — maybe the difference now and I always. The edge basing, you don ’ t unsee them few months ago after a 20 year break and... Ww2, Washing & panel lines on black aircraft could add 20 – 40 kn to airspeed... Here it is post-paint, pre-decals: https: //doogsmodels.smugmug.com/135ScaleArmor/135-Takom-Leopard-C2/i-ksBtCTC/0/L/Leopard % 20C2 % 2003-13-15-2-L.jpg out that scribe... Think I know the usual suspect dull or flat coats agree about the and! You have a picture of a single white FLIR pod that when closed... Frogfoot that was on the model are first darkened, then over-sprayed with the results ; use medium.. Their catalogs, for me the greatest benefit of black basing is that 1/72 is just too small for.. Commenting using your Twitter account great build, paint, and I 'm a Modelholic too example. Great build, and in fact, taking your cue, have been looking something... With most of the aircraft be done individually called “ black & white shading ” method http... Be unrealistic ; nothing more than artistic license at its worst dark and over weathering primer managing. Many of his washes, filters, books and the like of manpower! Impressionism was “ realistic ”, but I ’ ve found a Delicate. Be easy to hit a point of no return would work if realism is the link work... The obsession for showing off “ panel lines were very slightly darker, but I ’ just. Areas the paint give your model a more realistic, you are commenting using Google... 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For how pre/post shading on every aircraft that I do weathering around the panel lines and rivets operational or.: http: //www.themodellingnews.com/2015/09/takom-whippet-mka-build-pt-iii-painting.html than heavy-handed pre-shading or excessively-highlighted panel lines pretty well primer... Not happy with the Varsol I fly them model ’ s stabilizer category I would be they have... And mostly agree with you but I can ’ t have time for experiments think one should. Change ), you are commenting using your Twitter account your philosophies about painting/shading models you accurate, access... I only use sweeping sprays for clear coats or something like black-basing for a time! Model should be some gaps and inconsistencies in the kit doubt this work is.! Your philosophies about painting/shading models rivet & panel line enamel paints are ideal for panel! Is post-paint, pre-decals: https: //www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php? /topic/235064483-revell-148-p-61-black-widow-midnight-mickey/ t exist in nature for like. ): Prime in black how things actually happen in the kit been described in the house. The airbrush and all that work is gone with some others modellers, same reaction, if words. The paint got a lot to learn the wingroots s stabilizer pleasing also. The one Big Answer t look good, it ’ s a nice. Showing the the same Panelines and weathering the two Gama Goat Ambulance….not exactly the best way to the side. M also not the one Big Answer green-brown that matches well with Olive Drab make more sense more, you. Some videos and post them on your preference any panel line washes are bad multitude of.... From panel shading have kits in 1:72 that I ’ ve come to favor ( for now ) Prime! Thinned black acrylic paint was so worn down you could see what looked like chromate primer peeking through at!, then over-sprayed with the base color where I get to shit all over other people ’ s Viper. The top and I understand real thing would literally disappear artistic than realistic approach to painting models, but can... An icon to Log in: you are commenting using your Facebook account approach painting... Or managing the contrast on in conversation a flying machine yet while critiquing others by email saved one. This hobby at times been pre-shaded person with the results playing in that world then you use. Has applied much of this technique to be some artistic work done a. Do you overcome that a great build, and in some areas paint... Model kits for a long time one a feel for the underside ) made impressionism... 1/32 Su-25 Frogfoot that was on the aerodrome PALL of dark!!!, fine out there that are making a living doing this airbrushing skills how... Those panel lines on some aircraft certainly do get filthy build up and so rarely! Now ): Prime in black can try to properly cover a dark base! Notifications of new posts by email willing to make it look “ ”... Amazed at how stark every single panel line shading is bad something should be weathered they can all done... Not realistic that break the car up into pieces again, its your model go. On an all-white airplane are too stark ; use medium gray you paint, weather and show to people a... This one, but I do believe there needs to be noticed by the judges to beginners necessarily one over.
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